Late period costumers?.....

I'm looking to buy wool to make another working woman's/flemish dress (1500-1650). There are so many options for wool that I'm not sure what to get. Do I want a light, medium or heavy weight? Do I want a flannel, gaberdine, tricotine, crepe, suiting, or something else? If I find a light colored tan or grey color, could I easily dye it to a brighter color? Help would be appreciated.